Toyota LandCruiser Prado Review

The Toyota LandCruiser Prado is Australia’s best selling large SUV, but do the numbers prove it’s the best large SUV as well?

The LandCruiser Prado has been exceptionally successful for Toyota Australia. 17 years since it first launched and now in its fourth-generation, Australians have bought more than 200,000 of the Japanese-made large SUV.

A more impressive statistic is that if you counted sales of Toyota’s entire “Cruiser” range for 2012, which consists of LandCruiser Prado, LandCruiser 200 and 70 Series and FJ Cruiser, as an entirely separate business to Toyota’s other cars, it would’ve come 10th on the list of best-selling manufacturers.

To remind ourselves about what all the fuss is about, we embarked on a drive to New South Wales’ Blue Mountains outside of Sydney, with a bit of off-roading thrown in for good measure. The idea was to familiarise ourselves with the Prado while also celebrating the bicentennial anniversary of the first Europeans to cross the region.

Our test car was the five-door Toyota LandCruiser Prado Kakadu diesel, which has a retail price of $91,490, $1000 more than its petrol equivalent. The Kakadu sits at the very top of a somewhat complex Prado range, which starts at $55,990 for the base model GX but is also available as a three-door, starting at $56,090. There are two variants of the three-door and four variants of the five-door. For those who want an even bigger SUV with more off-roading capability, the LandCruiser 200 Series is the way to go.

The LandCruiser Prado range is available with a 3.0-litre turbo diesel across the range and a 4.0-litre petrol V6 on the five-door GXL, VX and Kakadu. Our Kakadu review car was equipped with the turbo diesel motor, which has 127kW of power and 410Nm of torque. Officially it uses 8.5 litres of diesel per 100km, which, given its massive 150L fuel tank, means it can do about 1750km on one tank. On that same token, it will cost about $225 to fill up at current diesel prices.

During our three days behind the wheel we drove roughly 500km and averaged about 10.5L/100km. That consisted of some off-roading and plenty of Sydney traffic, making it a pretty reasonable figure for a vehicle that weighs 2435kg.

The Toyota LandCruiser Prado is classified as a large SUV and technically competes with the more city-friendly SUVs like the Ford Territory, Holden Captiva 7 and Toyota’s own Kluger. In reality, the main competitor is the Mitsubishi Pajero both in terms of price and genuine SUV capability.

The seven-seater Prado is one of the larger SUVs most commonly seen in suburbia. It has tremendous appeal to families not just because it’s an ‘unbreakable’ Toyota but because it’s actually an SUV in the traditional sense of the word. It’s not a road car turned into an SUV, such as the Ford Falcon-based Territory.

The upside of that is Prado’s very rugged and can-do attitude. It’s eager and willing, feels exceptionally well put together and has the capability to go where none of its car-based competitors dare – even with 2500kg of cargo in tow. Apart from the even bigger and more off-road-focused Toyota LandCruiser 200 Series, the Prado would make an incomparable vehicle of choice in the unlikely event of a zombie apocalypse.

The downside is refinement. Where the likes of the Ford Territory and Toyota Kluger drive and behave like a car, the Prado behaves more like an old-school four-wheel-drive. The steering is vague and there’s a reasonable amount of body roll around corners. The diesel engine tends to make its share of noise, and although the five-speed automatic gearbox is well matched, it doesn’t have the same car-like feeling of a modern automobile.

Sit inside and the interior doesn’t look nearly as big as it should for a vehicle that measures nearly five metres in length. The front seats are comfortable and supportive but the second row seats could do with more legroom. The third row is ideal for children or best left folded flat for cargo. There’s plenty of headroom.

The side-hinged boot door requires a little too much space to open in tight car parks and you need to leave a reasonable amount of room at the back if boot access is required. Some prefer the top-hinged system as it requires less room to open but the Prado’s door does allow easier access to the boot when rear space isn’t an issue.

We had our 19-month-old son come along for the drive, his ISOFIX baby seat clipped in (with a little bit of force), and the rear screen DVD entertainment system was a huge bonus. The up-high position of the Prado and the sunroof also made the long drives easier as it allowed for better field of vision for the little guy, something definitely worth considering if you have kids.

Speaking of features, for that extra $35,500 over the base model GX, the Prado Kakadu comes with a whole bunch of interesting goodies. Apart from the basics, such as smart entry and start (leave key in pocket), the Kakadu gets radar cruise control (that allows you to follow the car in front at a set distance), parking sensors, reversing camera, satellite navigation, a 17-speaker JBL audio system, rear-seat DVD entertainment system, 18-inch alloys, 3-zone climate control, leather-accented interior and a pre-collision detection system that automatically brakes when a crash is imminent.

When the going gets rough, the Prado’s many off-roading systems come into play. Be it the downhill assistance control, or CRAWL, which is borrowed from the LandCruiser 200 series. CRAWL control technology manages the way power is directed to each wheel individually, helping to maintain maximum grip on steep or slippery surfaces. It’s sort of like cruise control for the outback.

We did some relatively basic off-roading in the Prado and, unsurprisingly, the Toyota never seemed phase. Many buyers are unlikely to ever take their Prado off-road, but the capability is reassuringly there.

On the safety side the Toyota LandCruiser Prado includes seven airbags, vehicle stability control, and a five-star ANCAP crash rating.

On the warranty side, the Toyota Prado range has a three-year/100,000km warranty. Where it beats the competition is the 15,000km service intervals and Toyota’s guarantee of a maximum $210 cost per service for the first six services.

If you’re after a well-built, traditional SUV with genuine off-road capability instead of a more road-focused SUV, the Toyota Prado is a strong choice.

Alfa Romeo Giulietta: new base model priced at $25,000 driveaway

Four new Alfa Romeo Giulietta variants have been introduced to Australia, including a new entry-level model priced at $25,000 driveaway.

The expanded Alfa Romeo Giulietta range includes four new variants of the small hatch, spread across two new specification levels dubbed Giulietta and Giulietta Progression.

Priced at $25,000 driveaway, the new base model Alfa Romeo Giulietta is powered by an 88kW/206Nm turbocharged 1.4-litre four-cylinder petrol engine, and features engine stop-start, steering wheel-mounted audio and phone controls, rain-sensing wipers, dusk-sensing headlights and 16-inch steel wheels.

Paired with a six-speed manual transmission, the Giulietta is good for a claimed 0-100km/h time of 9.4 seconds, combined cycle fuel consumption of 6.4 litres per 100km and CO2 emissions of 149 grams per kilometre.

Priced from $27,450 to $33,350, the three new Giulietta Progression grades includesix-speed manual and six-speed dual-clutch TCT automatic versions of the 125kW/250Nm turbocharged 1.4-litre MultiAir petrol, and a 125kW/350Nm 2.0-litre MultiJet turbo-diesel offered with the six-speed auto.

While the petrol engine gives a more spritely sprint time of 7.8 seconds to 100km/h compared with the diesel’s 8.0sec, the oiler wins the efficiency war, delivering 4.5L/100km to the petrol’s 5.2L/100km (auto).

Features in all three Progressions over the base Giulietta grade include electric lumbar adjustment for the driver’s seat, rear seat centre armrest, electrical folding exterior mirrors, and 16-inch alloy wheels.

All Alfa Romeo Giulietta models also receive six airbags (dual front, side and curtains) along with electronic stability control, hill start assist, and Alfa Romeo’s DNA system that allows drivers to select between Dynamic, Natural, and All-Weather driving modes.

The four new models go on sale this week and join the existing petrol and diesel Distinctive models and the 173kW/340Nm flagship Quadrifoglio Verde (QV), taking the total range to seven cars.

Alfa Romeo Giulietta range manufacturer’s list pricing
Alfa Romeo Giulietta 1.4 six-speed manual – $24,550 ($25,000 drive-away)
Alfa Romeo Giulietta Progression 1.4 six-speed manual – $27,450
Alfa Romeo Giulietta Progression 1.4 six-speed automatic – $29,450
Alfa Romeo Giulietta Progression 2.0 six-speed automatic – $33,350
Alfa Romeo Giulietta Distinctive 1.4 six-speed automatic – $31,350
Alfa Romeo Giulietta Distinctive 2.0 six-speed automatic – $35,250
Alfa Romeo Giulietta Quadrifoglio Verde (QV) 1750 six-speed manual – $39,150

74 Tips To Extend the Life of Your Car (6)

AC, Car Battery and More
65. Run your AC in winterTo keep your car’s air-conditioning system fit for the next warm season, run it a few times throughout the winter. This will prevent moving parts in the compressor from seizing. Also, circulating the refrigerant will help keep the seals soft and pliant.

66. Maintain your car’s battery
Maybe the manufacturer says your battery is maintenancefree, but don’t you believe it! Check your battery regularly to extend its life and avoid the hassle of being stranded with a dead battery.

• Begin with the simple: keeping your battery clean. A dirty case can actually cause current to drain. Wipe with a damp rag. Use a mild detergent if necessary.
• Next, clean the battery posts or terminals. Loosen and remove the negative cable (black or minus sign) first, then the red positive cable. Use a brass wire battery brush dipped in a paste made from a few tablespoons of baking soda and a little water.
• Inspect the battery case for damage, such as cracks or bulges — signs that a battery needs to be replaced.
• Reinstall the cables, positive first, and coat the terminals and clamps with a thin coating of grease to prevent new corrosion.

67. Some batteries need water
If your battery has vent caps, remove them to check the level of the electrolyte. It should rise 1/2 inch (13 mm) above the battery’s top plates. If it doesn’t, use distilled water to raise the level to 1/4 or 3/8 inch (6 or 10 mm) below the bottom of the vent cap. Don’t use tap water, as it may contain minerals that can damage your battery. Mechanics should check your battery as a part of your regularly scheduled maintenance, but they often skip the procedure. Be sure to ask to have it done.

68. Be kind to your battery
If you inadvertently leave your lights on and drain your battery, take the following precautions to prevent damage to the battery and the starter when jump-starting your car:

• Don’t risk causing the battery to explode. With both cars off, connect a positive cable end to the positive battery terminal of the dead battery.
• Connect the other positive cable end to the positive terminal of the source battery.
• Connect a negative cable end to the negative terminal of the source battery.
• Attach the remaining negative cable to unpainted metal on the car engine (as far from the dead battery as possible).
• Wait a few minutes and try to start the disabled car. If it doesn’t start, start the source car and then try starting the dead one again.
• When the car starts, be careful to disconnect the cables in the reverse order.
• If the car still doesn’t start, don’t keep trying to charge it or you are liable to damage the starter. Bring the battery to an automotive shop to see if it can be recharged.
• Even if you’re successful, ensure a full recharge by hooking up the battery to a charger overnight or by driving the car for 5 or 10 miles (8 to 16 km).

69. Seal a leaky radiator
Save the high expense of a new radiator by trying to seal a leak with a radiator sealer, such as Alumaseal from Gold Eagle Co. Available in powder or liquid form, the product circulates in the radiator until it gets to the hole, where it sets up and fills the hole upon contact with the air. Alumaseal may be used to stop heater core leaks as well.

70. Dilute your coolant
Your cooling system needs both coolant-antifreeze and water, so don’t pour undiluted coolant into your cooling system. Dilute it with water to the commonly recommended 50-50 ratio. Similarly, don’t use straight water in your system either.The coolant protects against corrosion and freezing.The water ensures good heat transfer from the coolant to the radiator.

71. Keep your cool
Check the coolant-antifreeze level weekly that shows on the translucent coolant-antifreeze overflow tank. If low, fill to the maximum fill mark on the tank with a 50-50 solution of coolant-antifreeze and water. Some coolant manufacturers now sell premixed coolant and water for the motorist who wants a quick and easy way to top off.

72. Don’t forget to flush
Coolant-antifreeze eventually degrades and becomes contaminated. Flush it from your cooling system as recommended in your manual (typically every two years; every five years for newer coolants). Failing to do so can damage your radiator, clog your heater core, and cause the thermostat and water pump to fail.

73. Don’t mix coolants

Avoid mixing coolants that are different in color. If your coolant is pink, don’t add a green formulation to it. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a thick solution that won’t do its job. Use only the coolant specified in your owner’s manual.

74. Check power-steering fluid

Check the power-steering fluid once a month with the car warmed up. If the level is low, have the hoses and pump inspected for leaks. In addition to making your car difficult to steer, low power-steering fluid will damage the power-steering pump. Be sure to use the powersteering fluid recommended for you car.

Read more: http://www.rd.com/advice/saving-money/74-car-care-tips-to-keep-your-automobile-in-topnotch-condition/#ixzz2TsdlpRzg

74 Tips To Extend the Life of Your Car (5)

Car Engine and Other Systems
51. Check engine oil at every other fill-up

For an accurate reading, follow this procedure:

• Run or drive your car for about 15 minutes to warm the oil; then park the car in a level place.Turn off the engine and wait 15 minutes to allow the oil in the engine to drain back to the oil pan.
• Remove the dipstick and wipe it clean with a paper towel or rag. Reinsert the dipstick, being sure to push it in all the way, then pull it out again to check the oil level. It should be somewhere between the hash marks on the dipstick.
• Add the type and amount of oil as specified in your owner’s manual, if necessary.

52. Change oil frequently
Your dad knew that frequent oil changes were key to keeping his Buick on the road another year. And while owner’s manuals for today’s cars recommend increasing long intervals between oil changes, the fact remains — frequent changes flush abrasive dirt and metal particles out of the engine, prolonging its life. Most owner’s manuals recommend a more frequent interval for “severe conditions.” To maximize the life of your engine, follow the severe intervals recommendations, especially if drive regularly in stop-and-go traffic.

53. Avoid overfilling your crankcase with oil

Don’t overfill your engine crankcase with oil. If you do, the oil can rise into the crankshaft, where air bubbles will get churned into the oil.Your oil pump can’t do a good job of circulating oil with air bubbles. The result can be overheating and stress on engine components. Overfilling can also foul your sparkplugs. In fact, overfilling is a bad idea with all automotive fluids.

54. Wipe oil pan plug clean
If you do your own oil changes, clean the drain plug and washer with rags before reinstalling your oil pan. Some plugs are magnetized to trap metal particles.

55. Don’t forget the filters
There are several filters (the main ones are oil, fuel, transmission, and air) important to preserving your car engine, and they should be changed according to the schedule in your owner’s manual or as follows:

• Change the oil filter at least at every other oil change — every change is even better because the old filter contains nearly a quart of dirty oil that will remain with the new, clean oil. If you change your oil yourself, wipe the filter threads with an anti-seize lubricant, available at auto supply stores.
• Check the air filter every two months and replace it when dirty or as part of a tune-up. Air filters are generally easier to get to than oil filters.You find them under the big metal lid in a carbureted engine or in a rectangular box in a fuelinjected engine — check your owner’s manual for the exact location. Extend the life of air filters by blowing them clean with compressed air.
• Despite claims by makers and dealers that some newer fuel filters never need changing, it’s smart to have it done once a year. A clogged fuel filter will cause poor engine performance (hesitation and starting difficulties) and is an early warning that there may be corrosion in your gas tank.
• Change your transmission fluid filter after the first 5,000 miles (8,000 km) of driving and every 25,000 miles (40,000 km) or two year thereafter.

56. Don’t forget the PCV valve
The PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is an emissions control device on older cars — check your service manual to see if your car has one.The valve recirculates partially burned gases from the engine’s crankcase to the combustion chamber. Important to a properly functioning engine, the valve should be changed every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or as specified in your owner’s manual. In addition to helping you get the most from a tank of gasoline, it helps to prevent the buildup of harmful sludge and corrosion.When replacing your PCV valve, be sure you use the correct one or you may damage your engine.

57. Heavier is not always better

Use the oil viscosity grade that’s recommended in your owner’s manual for the temperature range you expect
for the coming season. Lighter grades (lower viscosity, such as SAE 5W-30), often specified for today’s smaller car engines, will deliver easier starts and better engine protection in winter and improved gas mileage throughout the year, thanks to less internal engine friction. Do not use a heavy grade of oil in cold winter climes or you will risk damage to your engine.

58. Maintain your transmission
Change automatic transmission fluid and filter after the first 5,000 miles (8,000 km) and after every 25,000 miles (40,000 km) or two years thereafter, or as recommended in your owner’s manual. If you use your vehicle for towing, change the fluid and filter every year. For manual transmissions, change the lubricant (motor oil or gear oil, depending on the car) after the first 5,000 miles and after every 50,000 (80,000 km) thereafter. Use synthetic motor oil or gear lube for longer transmission life unless the manufacturer recommends otherwise.

59. Consider adding oil coolers

If you plan to do a lot of towing and your vehicle is not already equipped with coolers, consider having them added. Aftermarket engine oil and transmission fluid coolers are simple, low-cost addons that operate on the same principle as your car’s radiator. The fluid flows through them, and many small fins absorb and dissipate heat. Cooler operating temperatures of engine oil and transmission fluid can add significantly to the life of your engine and transmission.

60. Spark plugs do need changing

The advent of electronic ignition and on-board computers has eliminated the need for regular tune-ups, but you still need to change your spark plugs. Many manufacturers recommend changing plugs every 30,000 or 40,000 miles (48,000 or 64,000 km) to ensure good fuel mileage and engine performance. Some new cars come with long-life plugs (sometimes called double platinum plugs) that can last for 100,000 miles (160,000 km). If your car isn’t so equipped, make the switch after 30,000 miles. The extra cost is only a few dollars per spark plug. While you’re at it, change your spark plug wires as well. Their typical life is 50,000 miles (80,000 km). Deteriorated wires can cause those high-tech new spark plugs to foul.

61. Avoid hose hassles

Check the hoses under your hood every month or two to avoid the hassle of a broken hose while you’re on the road. With the car cool and off, squeeze the hoses. If they are hard or make a crunching sound, replace them. Ditto if they are extremely soft or sticky.With the car warm but off, examine hoses for bulges and collapsed sections. If you find any, the hose walls are weak, and it’s time to replace the hose. Never drive with a ruptured coolant hose, or you are liable to overheat the engine and damage it. Other hoses are crucial to operation of your power brakes and cruise-control systems.

62. Test drive-belt tension
Check the tension and condition of your drive belt (or, with many cars, multiple belts) every month. Belts that are too tight can wear out the bearings in accessory components, such as AC compressor, water pump, and power-steering pump. Belts that are too loose will wear out faster and may fail prematurely. Perform your examination before you start the car to avoid injury due to a hot belt or moving engine part. Check for tension by pressing in the center of the belt’s longest exposed run while holding a ruler next to it. If you can depress the belt 1/ 2 to 1 inch (13 to 25 mm), but not more or less, the tension is good. If not, adjust the belt tension yourself according to your car’s service manual, or have your dealer or auto repair service do it. Also check for belt damage, such as glazing (often due to oil leakage), fraying, and cracks. If you spot damage, have the belt checked by a pro and replaced if necessary.

63. Don’t forget the timing belt
On many cars, it’s the belt you can’t see that is the most critical. If your manual says, as many do, that you should replace the timing belt at 50,000 miiles, do it! A failed timing belt can, depending on engine type, cause thousands of dollars worth of damage to your engine.

64. Clean your engine
There are several reasons to wash your engine at least every year or two. A clean engine will run cooler than a dirty one. You’ll be more apt to tackle routine belt and hose checks and the like if you know you won’t get covered with grime every time you do so. A clean engine will also make it much easier to spot leaks and to service components. Remember to protect sensitive engine components — including the air intake, distributor, and electrical parts — with plastic bags before getting started. Use dishwashing liquid or other grease-cutting detergents and a bristle brush to scrub engine and components surfaces. Rinse thoroughly. Heavy-duty engine cleaning products are available at automotive parts stores. Follow the directions carefully. You may also have your engine professionally steam cleaned.

Read more: http://www.rd.com/advice/saving-money/74-car-care-tips-to-keep-your-automobile-in-topnotch-condition/#ixzz2TscaR9HM

Proton Preve Review

The Proton Preve is tagged by the Malaysian manufacturer as an example of its ability to compete on the world stage.

The name Preve (pronounced Pree-vey) means ‘proof’ or ‘to prove’, and 30 years after Proton was established – although it’s barely made a dent in Australia since arriving in 1995 – this small sedan is its first entirely home-grown effort. It has plenty of weight on its Toyota Corolla-sized shoulders, then, but the Preve has at least already proven tangibly strong having been awarded a five-star ANCAP safety rating.

A single 1.6-litre four-cylinder model is available for the Proton Preve, with a five-speed manual for $18,990 driveaway, or the automatic continuously variable transmission (CVT) tested here priced at $20,990 driveaway. Both get a five-year/150,000km warranty, and over that period both roadside assistance and scheduled servicing every 12 months or 15,000km is entirely free.

On the features side of the specifications list the Proton Preve appears competitive. Standard equipment includes 16-inch alloy wheels, front fog lights, reversing sensors, iPod connectivity, Bluetooth phone and audio streaming, keyless entry with alarm, power windows, and LED daytime running lights with follow-home functionality. Cruise control is a major omission for the price, but six airbags and electronic stability control (ESC) are included.

The interior in which most of those features are housed, however, isn’t so impressive. The Preve suffers badly from poor fit and finish. On our test car the seat trim was loose, the dark woodgrain passenger dash panel jutted out several millimetres from the adjoining central piece, and the otherwise decent textured-bathmat-style dashtop plastic joined unevenly at the A-pillar base.

There are ergonomic problems, too. The steering wheel adjusts only for height yet it doesn’t go high enough, and the audio buttons on it don’t illuminate at night. The audio system itself has fiddly and poorly labelled buttons, and a basic red pixellated display.

If sprawling space is more of a priority than accurate panel fit and tactile controls, however, then the Proton Preve does ‘prove’ decent.

The rear seat is very roomy – equal to a Nissan Pulsar and more capacious than the Opel Astra andMazda 3 we drove in the same week – and behind the backrest lies a large 508-litre boot.

Unlike with the 510-litre Pulsar, cargo capacity further expands in the Preve thanks to the inclusion of 60:40 split-fold rear seats, though as with the Nissan the Proton gets luggage-crushing, antiquated ‘gooseneck’ bootlid hinges. Oddly, the boot can’t be opened from the inside of the Preve, and nor does the bootlid or keyless entry fob feature a release – a key must be inserted and twisted.

Switch to the engine specifications side of the brochure, then drive the Preve, and it is found lacking both on paper and on the road. All non-turbocharged rivals with the exception of the Focus Ambiente have larger engines than the 1.6-litre Proton, and even then the Ford has more power and torque, and is lighter.

Power of 80kW (produced at 5750rpm) and torque of 150Nm (at 4000rpm) just isn’t enough to push a 1325kg sedan. The Preve is painfully sluggish off the mark. When pressed it also puts crosses across each of the letters of the NVH acronym with retrograde levels of noise, vibration, and harshness.

Even when reversing on light throttle, vibrations stream through the steering wheel, pedals and dash – and the CVT even made the engine stall once. On coarse chip bitumen, particularly, road noise fights with the thrashy engine.

Proton quotes 0-100km/h in 12.5 seconds – or about 20 per cent slower than the vast majority of rivals. Claimed consumption of 8.0L/100km is also higher by around the same percentage compared with competitors such as the 1.6-litre Focus (6.5L) and 1.8-litre Pulsar (6.7L). At least the Proton Preve didn’t exceed its ADR figure by too much on the test, recording 9.3L/100km during an even mix of urban, freeway and hard driving.

Under maximum throttle the CVT holds revs at 5200rpm, even in the alternative S mode, which is curious because peak power arrives 550rpm later. With no tipshifter facility or steering wheel paddles, the maximum 80kW isn’t ever actually delivered.

The CVT works best in undemanding situations, particularly on the freeway where it slips to a relaxed 2500rpm when travelling at 120km/h. On slight inclines around town the CVT subtly raises revs to disguise the grunt deficit, improving refinement compared with a traditional automatic that would need to aggressively slur back several gears.

The Preve’s suspension tune proves reasonably impressive on the open road, too.

Around town the rebound damping rates are too quick, and the low-speed ride is lumpy. But wearing sensible tall-profile 16-inch rubber, the suspension – tuned by Lotus, says Proton – deals well with larger ruts and irregulations.

The harder the Proton Preve is punted on a poorly surfaced twisting slice of bitumen, the better it feels. Where the Pulsar is soft but balanced, and the Mitsubishi Lancer soggy and lacking control, the Proton sits flat, keeps its body movements tight and grips decently.

Although it resists understeer well up to a point, the front end still isn’t completely sharp and it lacks the adjustability for which its best rivals are known – instead of tightening its line when the throttle is lifted mid corner, the Proton simply feels planted and continues its path of mild understeer.

The regular hydraulic-mechanical power steering feels vague on centre and in the first movements, and it isn’t particularly quick. But it becomes nicely meaty on the move – far more weighty than other small cars – and quite direct when using more lock.

On long radius sweepers, just point, hold and watch the Preve maintain the requested line without requiring adjustment.

Decent dynamics, in addition to free servicing and a roomy cabin, aren’t enough to offset the flawed design, below-average performance, lack of refinement, and poor fit and finish of the Proton Preve.

For the price, it should at least offer the 103kW/205Nm 1.6-litre turbo engine available overseas – Proton’s first turbo engine will arrive later this year, but no doubt for a higher cost. Even then, more power would only solve one of this car’s several issues.

The Proton Preve should be priced at least $4000 cheaper, to be reasonably competitive against light sedans such as the Holden Barina and Nissan Almera. It is better than the Chery J3 that sells for $6000 less, but the Proton isn’t necessarily 35 per cent better, and it certainly shares some of the Chinese-made hatchback’s quality and refinement shortfalls.

Fiat Panda Review

As one of Europe’s most iconic city cars, it’s only fitting that the Fiat Panda is coming to Australia to belatedly expand the Italian brand’s local line-up.

And it’s another Fiat that demonstrates what the company does best, because like most Italian cars it’s loaded with charm.

It may not look like a conventional hatch, but its cheeky styling is dominated by the ‘squircle’, and the upright cabin offers plenty of headroom and practicality.

Only one of three engines has been confirmed for Australia so far, with the 1.2-litre four-cylinder a sure thing and our fingers crossed that the 875cc TwinAir two-cylinder and meatier 1.3-litre diesel four-cylinder make the boat trip, too.

Don’t let the meagre stats fool you: the Panda is no lightweight. Like its Fiat 500 sibling, the Panda scores big on style, especially in a class dominated by staid but dependable Japanese and German rivals.

The ‘squircle’ that makes its appearance in the headlamps, tail-lights and third side-window is echoed inside as well: the door handles, air vents, gear lever – even the dash instruments – all follow this round-edged square design.

The effort that’s gone into the car’s cabin is evident by the smallest of details: a closer look at the dash and door trims reveals ‘Panda’ in raised lettering repeated. Nice.

Style doesn’t come at the expense of substance, though: the doors close with a firm thud, and the seats trimmed in a thick, durable cloth. Only the cheap dials and flimsy stalks on the lower-spec versions let it down. There are three spec levels: Pop, Easy and Lounge.

All come with electric front windows, central locking and four airbags, with the Easy adding roof rails, air-conditioning and an MP3-compatible CD player. The Lounge adds fog lamps and 15-inch alloys on top.

There’s also Fiat’s optional ‘Blue&Me’ infotainment system that will be standard on the 4×4 model, which is also on Fiat Australia’s wish list and may be here in early 2014.

The system offers voice commands and Bluetooth, as well as a responsive, easy-to-use touchscreen TomTom sat-nav. The display can be removed and used on the move, too. You can also download your driving data for later analysis (or download someone else’s…).

While high on design details, the Panda’s character is more than skin deep: it’s a blast to drive. The driving position is high, offering great all-round visibility, and the pedals, gear lever and electric steering all feel evenly weighted. The engine choices all play to different strengths.

The TwinAir, which is also used in the 500, is the smallest in capacity but is the most powerful Panda with 63kW. While this doesn’t sound like much poke, it’s a ball to drive as it needs to be worked hard.

There’s a great thrum from this unit that eggs you to push on and use the 145Nm on tap, making the most of the five-speed manual transmission, which is not the smoothest of boxes, for a controlled yet surprisingly agile, fast and entertaining drive.

You’ll find yourself changing back to first gear around town a little too much, but it’s utterly amusing to row through the gears.

Of course, you won’t achieve the 4.1L/100km claim, even with the smooth start/stop system, but the Panda TwinAir is a joy to pedal and easily capable of stealing cheeky gaps in traffic.

While the TwinAir is not at all sluggish, though, go for the 1.2-litre petrol four-cylinder that, despite less power and torque (51kW and 102Nm), doesn’t feel lethargic as its stats suggest.

The torquey 55kW 1.3-litre diesel, with 190Nm at a low 1500rpm, is the most economical with a 4.2L/100km claim, but the fuel saving is cancelled out by its higher list price. Petrol engines are also smarter for the short, quick trips around town that the Panda’s been designed for.

If you do want to get out of the city, the Panda 4×4 (above) is the pick. It adds the obligatory off-road cladding with chunkier bumpers and a 47mm increase in ground clearance.

It’s offered with the TwinAir petrol or the 1.3-litre diesel, and also has an electronic diff lock and hill holder that work in conjunction with its torque-on-demand all-wheel-drive system. Don’t laugh at the prospect of this tiny off-roader, for the Panda’s short wheelbase means it has greater approach angles than the likes of the Nissan Dualis.

On the road, the Panda rides well but is a little on the firmer side of things. It’s comfortable, but it sends every bump and surface change through the steering wheel. The steering gives good turn-in for a city car, and there’s loads of grip and well controlled body roll. The light weight (with the 1015kg 1.2-litre the lightest) means that its relatively small brakes pull it up strongly, and it’s not a handful when you do need to make full use of them.

Space is yet another Panda strength. While the 225-litre boot trails the luggage areas of the VW Up! and the Toyota Yaris, it’s still reasonable for a city car and the 4×4 version doesn’t lose any space at all. The other drawback is that a split-fold rear seat isn’t standard, nor is the rear-seat sliding mechanism.

Australian models may come with these as standard, and hopefully they do, as it liberates 35 more litres for a 260-litre boot space.

Rear passenger space is excellent across the range too, with a six-foot tall passenger easily fitting comfortably behind a similarly sized driver.

So is the Panda better than a VW Up! or Toyota Yaris? If you want style, practicality and character in spades, nothing can touch the Panda’s quirkiness and cheeky appeal. It’ll also put a smile on your face when you’re in the mood to have some fun, and it’s roominess inside goes with its small dimensions outside to make it an extremely livable city car.

The only thing that may hold the Panda back is its higher list price than its rivals, although it’s still expected to start at less than $20,000. Yet unlike many cars, you do get something more for the extra cash – something much more entertaining and fun.

Ford Fiesta ST Review

The Ford Fiesta ST sees the end of a five-year sabbatical for a high-performance version of the Blue Oval company’s city car.

Ford hasn’t offered a hot Fiesta since the last generation XR4 went off sale in 2008.

The XR4 was a brilliant hatch, and at $24,990 was a performance bargain. But it wasn’t held in the esteem of the then $38,000 RenaultSport Clio but was easily the best hatch below it.

Now, Ford’s upped the ante. For starters, the XR name has gone – with the Ford Fiesta ST adopting the same Sports Technologies badging as the Ford Focus ST hot-hatch.

Arriving with the new faclifted Fiesta range, which has given all models an Aston Martin-like gaping front grille, the 17-inch wheels on our UK test car fill the guards nicely, and there’s a properly integrated body kit as well as a neat roof-top rear spoiler giving the ST extra muscle on the outside.

It looks more aggressive than the Focus ST, and far more cohesive than the relatively plain Peugeot 208 GTi that we’ve also driven recently.

Climb in, and it’s not quite as boy-racer as you’d expect. There’s a pair of excellent colour-coded Recaro seats up front, with ST logos pushing the famed Recaro font down the sides of the bolsters, which hold you in superbly.

The rear, too has the Recaro treatment, while there’s an ST steering-wheel partly covered in perforated leather. In terms of kit, there’s Ford SYNC, with Bluetooth and voice control that actually works, as well as cruise, sat-nav and a USB port.

At the wheel, the dash layout of the Ford Fiesta ST is identical to the top-spec Fiesta, with not a jot of tacky chrome or brightwork added. That’s because the ST doesn’t need to shout about its role as top-dog: there’s no mistaking its brilliance on the road.

It starts with its superb engine. The ST’s main rivals are all turbocharged now, so Ford decided the fast Fiesta needed one, too. The 1.6-litre turbocharged four-cylinder is one of the company’s EcoBoost powerplants, so it’s loaded with tech such as lightweight aluminium, direct fuel injection, and the turbo is the latest, most efficient twin-scroll variety.

Power is up a massive 34 per cent – to 147kW – over the XR4’s 2.0-litre engine and identical to that in the Renault Clio RS200 and 208 GTi, which, coincidentally or not, are also 1.6-litre turbos. Some pundits may claim 132kW for the ST, but it has a 15-second overboost function (as in the Mini Cooper S JCW) where it achieves its highest numbers.

That goes for torque, too, which on overboost jumps from 240Nm to a staggering 290Nm – a figure you needed a V8 Holden to beat two decades ago.

While there’s a Sound Symposer duct – as in the Focus hot-hatch – to give the Ford Fiesta ST a nice, warm burble at idle, there’s nothing artificial in the way it pulls off the line. The 6.9 second 0-100km/h time is line-ball with its main rivals, but it’s so torquey that you can sweep through the six-speed manual gearbox without taking a breath.

As with the 208 GTi, however, there’s not automatic option, with both the Peugeot and Ford contrasting with the VW Polo GTI and Clio RS that come with dual-clutch gearboxes only.

Traction off the line is superb, and the three-mode stability control (On, Sport and completely off) doesn’t dampen progress by cutting in violently, but provides subtle interventions to keep it all together. Once you’re up and running, you can stab the throttle in any gear, even sixth, and the ST responds for effortless freeway overtaking.

Show it a winding, country road, and you’ll see the Fiesta ST at its best. The firm yet not uncomfortable ride keeps you connected to the road, with superbly weighted electric steering from the driving position that instantly feels natural.

Attack a corner, and the turn-in is super sharp, the front wheels bite and – even with stability control off – you can nail the throttle early for a quick exit.

Body control is tight, road holding exemplary, and the whole package feels bank-vault tight as the seats hold you firmly but comfortably in place. You’ll easily lift an inside rear wheel around tighter corners, but the whole affair doesn’t feel violent or forced: everything is so well connected, so well balanced, that it’s a breeze to drive at breakneck speeds.

It’s not a huge surprise that it’s a great hatch to drive. The Ford Fiesta may be a humble city car – or ‘superminis’ as they call them in the UK where it’s the best-selling car – but it’s already the dynamic benchmark in its class.

The abilities and execution of the Ford Fiesta ST, however, is still far beyond expectations.

It’s lost none of its ability to hit the supermarket, but is the sharpest, most competent and entertaining Fiesta ever built and punches way above its weight.

It makes the new Peugeot 208 GTi look conservative and could threaten the Clio RS’s crown as king of the pocket rockets.

Expect the waiting lists in Europe to be duplicated when the Ford Fiesta ST arrives down under in August.

Ford Fiesta ST
Engine: 1.6-litre four-cylinder turbo
Power: 147kW @ 6000rpm
Torque: 290Nm @ 3500rpm
0-100km/h: 6.9 seconds (claimed)
Top speed: 220km/h
Fuel economy: 5.9L/100km (combined)
Weight: 1163kg
Price: $26,990 (estimated)
On sale: August